November 7th, 2025

Since I retired, I’ve been part of the hiking group from my former workplace. Well… “part of” might be a bit of an exaggeration: my injured foot no longer allows me to tackle steep mountain paths. But I’ve remained loyal to the group and still follow their adventures from a distance.

Finding an activity that appeals to everyone isn’t always easy. So, a few months ago, I suggested something a little different: a visit to Bern and the Federal Palace. Definitely, that hardly qualifies as a “hike”… but at a certain age, walking on flat ground can count as sport too!

I was a bit worried the idea wouldn’t spark much enthusiasm, after all, most Swiss schoolchildren visit the Federal Palace at least once during their education. And yet, to my great surprise, 28 people signed up. Perfect! As visiting groups are limited to 30 participants, we were almost at full capacity.

The day began gently with coffee and croissants at the Toi et Moi restaurant, located in the home of the bourgeoisie of Bern. A good dose of caffeine and conviviality before heading to the beating heart of Swiss politics.

On the way, I took the opportunity to remind our participants about the different federal departments and the seven Federal Councillors (Ministers) who lead them. There are only seven, but let’s be honest, even among the Swiss, few can name them all without hesitation…

After the obligatory security check, our guided tour began under the direction of a lively and humorous guide. She introduced us to the Dome Hall, a monumental space filled with symbols of the founding of the Swiss Confederation and fascinating anecdotes about the building’s construction. Then came the two most emblematic rooms: the National Council chamber and the Council of States chamber, where the representatives of the people and the cantons meet.

The visit ended in the Wandelhalle, an elegant and welcoming lobby, which also serves as a reception area. A few tables and armchairs allow parliamentarians to chat, exchange ideas and who knows, perhaps even reach agreements.

Before leaving the Federal Palace, we admired the spectacular view from the terrace overlooking the rooftops of Bern and the winding Aare river with the majestic panorama of the Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau, the famous Bernese Alpine trio.

The rest of the day was devoted to exploring the old town of Bern, where history, architecture and good spirits blended harmoniously.

For those who don’t yet know Switzerland’s federal capital, here are a few facts: Bern was founded in 1191 by Duke Berchtold V of Zähringen and joined the Confederation in 1353. Since 1983, its old town has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site, thanks to its remarkably well-preserved medieval layout and its six kilometres of arcades lining the central streets. Today, the city has around 140,000 inhabitants, nearly 430,000 with the greater metropolitan area.

Our visit began in a patrician house dating back to 1690, unassuming at first sight, but steeped in history. Built for a prominent Bernese family, it was converted into rental flats in 1930. In 1942, a certain Allen Dulles, agent of the American secret service (the OSS, forerunner of the CIA), moved in. From this discreet apartment, he ran the Swiss section of the agency and gathered crucial intelligence on Nazi Germany and Fascist Italy during WW2. Not your average old-town building!

On our way to the Bear Pit, where we planned to have lunch, we admired the elegant buildings made of molasse, the characteristic Bernese sandstone with its blue-green reflections.

But why a bear pit, you may wonder? According to legend, when Duke Zähringen founded the city, he ordered his men to hunt the first animal they encountered. It turned out to be a bear, hence the name “Bern”, derived from Bär, the German word for bear. To honour this animal, a pit was built, which became one of the city’s landmarks (and rest assured, today’s bears live in far better surroundings!).

We had lunch at the Altes Tram Depot restaurant, a former tram depot converted into a lively brewery right next to the Bear Pit. The bears already seemed ready for hibernation, but we were wide awake, enjoying the house-brewed beer, a fine meal and the splendid view of the Aare.

In the afternoon, we continued our walk to the Town Hall, built in 1406 and now the seat of the cantonal government, and then to Bern Cathedral, whose first stone was laid in 1421. Built on the site of an earlier Romanesque church, it became Protestant after the Reformation in 1528. Its tower, completed in 1893, rises to 100.6 metres, the tallest church tower in Switzerland.

Along the way, we stopped outside Albert Einstein’s former apartment, where he lived with his wife Mileva from 1903 to 1905. At the time, he worked at the Swiss Federal Office for Intellectual Property, examining patents. He humorously described himself as a “technical expert, third class”. And yet, it was in that modest setting that he formulated the famous equation E = mc² , proof that great ideas don’t require a grand office!

Before my colleagues took the train back to Thun, our hiking group’s home base, we admired the Zytglogge, the famous clock tower. Originally built in 1218 as a defensive tower, it was reconstructed after the great fire of 1405. Today, it houses an astronomical clock showing the positions of the sun, moon and stars. On every full hour, an intricate mechanical show animates the façade: cockerel, jester, bears, Chronos and knight take their turns in precise and humorous succession.

We paused at several other historic buildings before concluding this delightful day. My colleagues were thrilled: it may not have been a “hike” in the strict sense, but it was certainly a rich cultural and convivial adventure.

And for those who missed the occasion, I can only recommend returning to Bern on the fourth Monday of November for the famous Zibelemärit, the Onion Market. Legend has it that after the great fire of 1405, farmers from Fribourg helped clear the ruins and, as thanks, were granted the right to sell their onions in Bern. A fine story, even if historians find it a bit embellished… Today, the fair attracts visitors from all over Switzerland, as well as from Germany and France, proof that in Bern, even onions bring people together!