23rd day, May 8th 2023

Gorges du Dadès – Goulmima

There are days you never forget. Today was one of them!

After a lovely evening where the hotel staff played music for the six guests present, night settled in. But then a group of campers in motorhomes arrived, and once everyone was asleep, some of them went to fetch the drums the staff had played earlier to continue the party... until a staff member firmly asked them to stop, it was past midnight!

This morning, after a good breakfast, I set off north, where the Dadès Gorges end. Few tourists venture that far because the road is rough. And I hadn’t realized what awaited me. The day before, a violent storm had turned the road into a slippery mudslide, dotted with huge puddles. I proceeded cautiously but seeing locals speed along on their scooters without hesitation, I took the plunge too.

According to my maps, the RR704 after Tilmi was a normal road. But upon arriving in Tilmi, I began to doubt: my GPS led me onto a rocky, steep trail, blocked by huge stones. Locals assured me it was the right way. I continue, the track becoming increasingly difficult. Then came a junction: my GPS was confused. I chose the left path, which looked easier. After several kilometres of intense effort, I met two women on donkeys who told me it was a dead end, I should have taken the other way!

I turned back and took the right path this time. The climb was steep and really tough, but I passed a group of three motorcyclists, confirming I was on the right track. The trail kept climbing and I stayed focused to avoid any slips. Finally, I reached the summit, where some Italian riders were also taking a break to catch their breath after the challenge.

The landscape opened up before me, majestic (https://maps.app.goo.gl/jkCCN5qyRFfbeafz5). The road improved, and I could finally ride more calmly. Then, like a miracle, around a bend, the road became perfect: wide, freshly paved, brand new. What a relief, what a burst of joy after this ordeal! In forty years of riding, I’d never faced such a long and demanding route. My joy was immense.

I arrived at Agoudal, realizing this mountain road really was the RR704, and that I had climbed over 2800 meters in altitude! I turned right onto the RR703, which was less well-maintained, but after what I had just experienced, it felt almost like a motorway.

Before reaching Tinghir, one last marvel: the Todra Gorges (https://maps.app.goo.gl/sicBDXPFLNGRXPCV6). Smaller than the Dadès but more touristy, they were still impressive.

Finally, I joined the N10 and arrived at my final destination, Camping les Tamaris in Goulmima (https://maps.app.goo.gl/Ya39kiwBNjZ5FKpq9). Across the street, a car wash awaited. My motorcycle, covered in mud, badly needed a clean. For barely 3 CHF, it came out looking like new!

Had I known what was ahead, I might never have dared take this route… Tonight, I’m proud of myself! This has been the best motorcycle adventure I’ve experienced so far. And I must say it again: I have never felt so confident on my Africa Twin. It mastered this stage brilliantly.

Today, I covered 250 km in 5 hours and 53 minutes, reaching a maximum altitude of 2802 meters.