August 26th, 2025

As I mentioned in yesterday’s blog, I had breakfast at the Kaplan family’s home, with the famous neighbour also joining us. The table was literally overflowing with dishes, so much so that there was hardly any space left. The neighbour had baked some delicious little buns, and I had to try every single dish laid out in front of me.

After this feast, we moved into the kitchen where Turkish coffee and baklavas were served. And, as always, my fortune was read in the coffee grounds. The verdict: my future looks bright!

A little later, Alev handed me a small package, a thoughtful souvenir of my stay in Dersim that she had bought together with her neighbour: a beautiful shirt and a bracelet. Yet again, the generosity I had felt throughout my time here was confirmed.

Then came the moment of departure. The whole family, together with Deniz, accompanied me to the bus stop that would take me to Elazig airport. It was an emotional farewell, tears were shed, and once again I felt the warmth and generosity of these people.

This time I travelled by day. On my arrival it had been pitch dark and I had seen nothing, but now I was able to discover the landscapes all the way to Elazig. At the airport, I asked to be reassigned a seat near the emergency exit so that I could stretch my leg. Unfortunately, the Turkish Airlines staff spoke only Turkish and, despite my efforts, it was impossible to get this change. I was given all sorts of excuses: my “advanced” age, my physical condition, the fact that a confirmed seat could no longer be altered… For an airline that claims to be “premium”, not having staff able to speak English seemed rather disappointing, especially in a region that does attract a fair number of tourists.

On the other hand, the wheelchair I had hoped to get in Istanbul, given the huge distance between terminals, was already waiting for me in Elazig. After saying my goodbyes to Deniz, I was taken to the plane by wheelchair through a service door and shown to my seat. The flight left on time and the two-hour journey was pleasant. The approach into Istanbul was breathtaking: the sheer size of this metropolis, covering both Europe and Asia, is truly impressive.

On landing, everything went smoothly: I was picked up by a buggy, bypassed the long security queues, and cleared passport control without delay. With almost three hours of layover ahead of me, I treated myself to a quick snack, a lemonade and a slice of cheesecake. But what a shock at the cashier: €9 for a sugary, artificial lemonade with no real taste, and €10 for a simple slice of cheesecake! Airports certainly know how to take advantage of travellers...

Boarding for Zurich started on time. On board, a decent meal was served. At Zurich, disembarkation, automated passport control, and baggage claim all went without a hitch. I was able to catch the next train to Bern, arriving at 12:30 a.m., just in time for the last tram.

It had been a long day that left me exhausted…

In summary: an unforgettable journey! The surprise had worked perfectly, only Alev and I knew about my trip, but what I will cherish most is the human warmth of the Kurds, their generosity, kindness, and boundless hospitality.

Dersim itself may not be an unmissable city, although the banks of the Monsur River are very pleasant. But the surrounding region (a paradise for motorbikes) is well worth exploring: a wild, arid yet majestic nature, two valleys crossed by clear, fresh rivers. Added to this are the rituals of the Alevi religion, which bring a breath of freedom in a country with a Muslim majority where the government tries to enforce a strict line.

Sadly, even if not always visible at first glance, the oppression of Kurdish culture remains omnipresent. Coming from a country like mine, where four cultures coexist: Germanic, Francophone, Italophone, and Romansh, this situation feels all the more unsettling. For, in the end, where is the problem? The Kurds of Turkey, Iraq, Syria, and Iran have long since abandoned the hope of an independent state. How much simpler it would be to live together, while respecting the differences and heritage of each culture.