August 24th, 2025

his morning, after having breakfast at the hotel, Deniz, his mother and his sister Alev came to pick me up for another excursion in the surroundings of Dersim (Tunceli for the Turks). Unfortunately, it was once again the same driver as yesterday… meaning a few more cold sweats for me!

We set off towards Pümülür, heading north. A river once again accompanied us along the way. Many restaurants line its banks, some even allowing visitors to dip their feet into the cool water while they eat.

The valley is wider than the one we drove through yesterday, but the mountains surrounding it are just as impressive – ochre in colour, majestic, peaceful, and breathtakingly beautiful.

At midday, I finally managed to persuade my companions to let me pay the bill. It took quite a bit of insistence: according to tradition, the guest is always honoured and invited to the table. We stopped at a charming restaurant, nestled against a little waterfall of fresh water. The meal was without doubt the best I have had since arriving (photo). And once again, I had to fight to settle the bill as we left. For me, it was the very least I could do to show my gratitude for such warm hospitality.

On the way back, we stopped near a rock where a spring trickles gently down the cliff face. It is a place full of symbolism for the Alevis, who maintain a very strong spiritual connection with nature (photo). The family took the opportunity to fill a few bottles: the water is particularly cool and delightful to drink.

Just before returning to Dersim, we visited the Alevi meeting house, the Cemevi. I was fortunate enough to be able to enter the large meeting hall, empty at the time. The ceiling is adorned with portraits of the Twelve Imams as well as Ali, central figures in the Alevi culture of the Kurds in Turkey.

Turkish Airlines has confirmed that a wheelchair will be waiting for me at Istanbul airport – a great help, as the distances to cover there are far too long for my still fragile foot.

This evening, I shared my last meal with Alev, Deniz and the famous driver Youssef. We improvised a little picnic in the municipal park, by the Monsur river. Simple, yet really delightful – all the more so with a generous helping of baklava to round things off!

Tomorrow morning, once I’ve packed my suitcase, I’ll stop by the Kaplan family’s home for breakfast before catching the bus to Elazig airport at around 11 a.m. Deniz will travel with me before heading back to Dersim. A long journey awaits me, as I won’t reach Bern until Tuesday, at about one o’clock in the morning.

Good night, everyone!