24th day, may 9th 2023

Goulmima – Gorges du Ziz

After a day full of memorable experiences yesterday, I enjoyed some excellent wood-fired grilled turkey skewers. The owner of a small stall told me he used to be a cook in the infantry of the Royal Moroccan Army, a Sergeant Major, no less!

The night was calm and restful. By now, I barely notice the calls to prayer, whether early in the morning or late at night.

This morning, I left the campsite for a short ride. I filled up with petrol and managed to withdraw a decent amount of cash at a bank that finally agreed to let me take out more than just a little.

The N10 road, straight as if drawn with a ruler, took me all the way to Errachidia. Once again, I was struck by the cleanliness and modern feel of the town, which also seemed fairly wealthy judging by the beautiful houses dotted around. I continued along the edge of a lake, probably artificial, although its water level was disappointingly low.

About thirty kilometres later, I reached my destination: Jurassic Camp (https://maps.app.goo.gl/bVDeGPcoPM5NsuFp7). This site is mainly set up for mobile homes, so it wasn’t ideal for pitching a tent. I decided to book a room instead. It’s spacious, with two beds (a double and a single), a shower and spotless facilities, a welcome luxury every now and then after so many nights under the tent.

I plan to take advantage of the facilities to do some laundry and maybe cool off in the pool later. Unfortunately, just like yesterday, the internet connection is painfully slow, making it impossible to upload my photos. On top of that, the mobile signal (Orange Morocco) is barely there, and only works at reception in this remote spot.

Assou, the campsite handyman, whipped up a hearty Berber omelette for me, just what I needed to recharge my batteries.

Today, I covered 96 km in 1 hour and 40 minutes.