21st day, May 6th 2023

Zagora – Alnif

I left behind the scorching heat of Zagora. This stage marked the southernmost point of my journey. I took the N12 heading towards Alnif. The road, although somewhat monotonous, remained interesting: long straight stretches crossing stony desert plains. From time to time, I passed a camel herder tending his flock. I wonder how people live here, in such a harsh environment.

About ten kilometres before Alnif, I arrived at Camping Kasbah Météorites (https://maps.app.goo.gl/XiBBmbwaXReUMiiV8), where I’d spend the night. This hotel seems very popular with tourists, but I set up my tent under a shelter in the staff parking lot, a spot generously offered to me. I’m getting used to setting up quickly, and in less than 20 minutes everything was ready.

After yesterday’s 40°C, the temperature dropped to 35°C. Since I left Zagora earlier to avoid the worst heat, I was ahead of schedule and took advantage to go to Alnif to grab something to eat, as the campsite didn’t offer breakfast this morning.

Today is King Charles III’s coronation, and I was watching highlights of the ceremony on my phone. The restaurant server asked me what I was watching, and I explained it was the king’s coronation. He looked at me, surprised, and asked, “But who is this King Charles?”

Some of my readers have asked how I write my texts. No, I don’t use artificial intelligence (ChatGPT or anything like that). I write my texts in French, then translate them into English. For German, I confess I use “DeepL,” a very efficient translation software.

Others have asked more technical questions about my gear. On my site, I’ve listed all my equipment, but three things come to mind today: my Klim Badlands motorcycle suit, which perfectly protected me even in yesterday’s heat. Its ventilation is remarkable. It wasn’t the cheapest gear, but the investment was definitely worth it. Then there’s my MSR tent, super light and compact, which I can pitch in less than 15 minutes. By using only the inner tent, ventilation at night is optimal. Finally, a small but precious gadget: an electric pump to inflate my Thermo-Light mattress, which is also very comfortable. After several hours of riding in that heat, this little luxury is priceless! Small and rechargeable, I just connect the nozzle, and voilà, the mattress is ready in no time.

Camping Kasbah Météorites has a wonderful pool, but unfortunately no shade around it. With such an intense sun, it’s best to avoid swimming when the sun is at its peak.

Today, I rode 173 km in 2 hours and 10 minutes.